How to Dye Wool with Goldenrod and Alum

Materials & tools you'll need

Step 1 — Gather goldenrod blooms and brew the dye bath

Collect as many freshly opened goldenrod blooms as you can, ideally picking them during the early stages of blooming for the best color potential. Fill a large pot with rainwater — freshly collected from a recent storm is ideal — and add your goldenrod blooms to the water. Place the pot on low heat and simmer gently for approximately 1 to 1.5 hours, checking on its progress every half hour until the water develops the golden hue you're looking for.

Step 2 — Pre-scour the wool

While the dye bath simmers, pre-scour your bleached white wool by boiling it in a separate pot of water with dish soap for about 30 minutes. This removes oils and residues from the fibers so the dye can take hold evenly later on. Rinse the pre-scoured wool thoroughly under cold running water until all the soap has been washed away.

Step 3 — Mordant the wool with alum

Measure out alum powder according to the package instructions and mix it with hot water to create your mordant solution. Soak the pre-scoured wool in this alum solution for at least one hour, or longer if the manufacturer's instructions recommend it. This step helps the wool fibers hold onto the goldenrod dye and improves how well the color lasts over time.

Step 4 — Strain the dye bath and dye the wool

Once the goldenrod dye bath has reached your desired hue, strain out all the plant material using a strainer or cheesecloth so you're left with a clear, golden liquid. Soak your pre-mordanted wool skein in the strained dye bath for at least one hour on low heat, then let it cool down completely in the dye bath before moving on to rinsing.

Step 5 — Rinse and dry the yarn

Once the dyed wool has cooled fully, wash it thoroughly under cold running water until the water runs clear and all excess dye and any remaining soap have been rinsed out. Gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing the yarn too tightly, then hang the dyed wool up to dry completely.

Step 6 — Skein and soften the yarn (optional)

Once your yarn has fully dried, you can skein it using a skeiner for easy storage and future projects. If you'd like a softer finished yarn, run it through a gentle wash in the washing machine on a delicate cycle with mild detergent, then air dry it again. Your golden yellow wool is now ready to use in whatever textile project you have in mind.

Frequently asked questions

What is goldenrod and why is it popular for making dyes?
Goldenrod is a plant that produces vibrant yellow blooms, and it's popular among natural dyers for the stunning golden hue it produces on fiber. The process involves brewing a dye bath from freshly opened blooms, which is then used to color pre-scoured wool or other fibers.

What safety precautions should I take when working with goldenrod dye?
Wear gloves and a mask, and work in a well-ventilated area, since the process involves both plant materials and chemicals like alum powder. Take care to avoid skin contact and inhaling fumes while the dye bath simmers.

What role does alum powder play in dyeing wool with goldenrod?
Alum powder acts as a mordant — a substance that fixes the dye to the wool fibers. It improves colorfastness and helps the finished golden hue hold up to washing and everyday use.

How long does a goldenrod dye bath need to simmer?
Simmer the dye bath gently for approximately 1 to 1.5 hours, checking its progress every half hour until you reach the desired golden hue. The exact time can vary depending on how fresh the blooms are and how strong you want the color.

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