How to Sew a Handmade Bow Tie

Materials & tools you'll need

Step 1 — Cut out the fabric

Stack four layers of fabric, place your pattern on top, and pin it down so nothing shifts or gets miscut. Cut out the pattern through all four layers. If the pins make it hard to cut around the pattern, trace around it with a pencil first, then pull the pattern off and cut along your pencil line. You should end up with four pieces that look exactly the same.

Step 2 — Sew the pieces into two long strips

Take two of the pieces and put them right sides together, so the sides the pattern was on are touching. Pin along the long edge, then sew along the short end. Lining the pattern up with the foot of your sewing machine helps keep the seam straight, and going over the seam twice makes it extra sturdy. Repeat with the other two pieces.

Pull out the pins, trim the loose threads, and open each piece out flat. Iron one side of the seam over to one side and the other side over to the opposite side. When you're done you'll have two very long pieces.

Step 3 — Sew the two long pieces together

Put the two long pieces right sides together and pin all the way around. Start pinning in the middle so the first piece sits exactly on top of the second, then pin out to each end. Start sewing at one end, across the wide edge, lining the seam up with the foot of your machine again. Sew around that end of the pattern, pulling out pins as you go.

When you get close to the middle seam, stop and backstitch, then sew forward a little. Leave a gap of about three or four inches, then start sewing again on the same side with a backstitch and carry on to the end. Sew the other end the same way, but this time don't leave a gap. Only one side of the bow tie gets an opening. You'll need it for turning the tie right side out.

Step 4 — Clip the corners

Before you turn the tie, cut away the extra fabric at the corners. If it all stays inside, it bunches up and you won't get the sharp corners a bow tie needs. Cut a small triangle out at each corner and joint, then cut two extra triangles on the top and bottom of the rounded part. Take care not to cut through your stitching. Removing this bulk gives you a smoother finish when the tie is turned.

Step 5 — Turn it right side out

Pull the fabric apart at the gap and start pushing it through. It goes much more easily if you use the back end of a pencil to shimmy the fabric along. Once a section is through, pull out the pencil and grab the fabric to pull it the rest of the way. Do the same with the other side. Then use the pencil again to push the little bits that are still stuck inside out to where they belong. After a light flattening it already looks like a bow tie, though it's still too round until it's pressed.

Step 6 — Press, close the opening, and tie it

Take the tie to the ironing board. Roll the fabric out between your fingertips so the seam sits exactly on the edge, then press the part you just rolled. Pull back, roll forward, and press, and work your way around both sides. Pressing makes a big difference to how flat and clean it looks.

Next, close the opening. Fold the edges so they match up with the seams that are already sewn, press it flat, and sew it shut. You can use the sewing machine, since the seam ends up under your shirt collar. Hand-sewing leaves it a little cleaner, though, and the stitches are hard to see. Then tie it. In the video I follow a phone tutorial for this, so look up a bow tie tying guide if you haven't tied one before.

If you'd like some contrast, make the tie from two different fabrics. I made a second one this way to test the pattern, and you can see a little of the second colour behind the bow.

Frequently asked questions

What do I need to make a handmade bow tie?
You will need a bow tie pattern, four layers of fabric, scissors, a pencil, pins, a sewing machine and thread, an iron and ironing board, and a needle for hand-sewing the opening closed at the end.

How do I turn a bow tie right side out without it bunching?
Before turning, cut small triangles out of the corners and joints, plus two extra on the top and bottom of the rounded part, so there is less fabric stuck inside. Then use the back end of a pencil to shimmy the fabric through the gap and push the corners and curves into place. Finally, roll each seam flat with your fingertips and press it.

Why do I leave a gap when sewing the bow tie, and how do I close it?
The 3-4 inch gap is how you turn the bow tie right side out. Leave it on one of the two long pieces only. When you are done, fold the opening to match the seams that are already sewn, press it flat, and hand-sew it closed. You can sew it on the machine instead, since the seam sits under the shirt collar, but hand-sewing is a bit cleaner.

Can I make a bow tie from two different fabrics?
Yes. In the video, a second bow tie is made with two different fabrics, which shows a bit of the second colour behind the bow once it is tied. The method is the same, so use one fabric for two of the layers and a different one for the other two.

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