How to Patch a Jeans Knee with a Circular Sashiko-Style Patch

Materials & tools you'll need

Step 1 — Cut the worn area into a circle

Roll up the cuffs of your jeans, which makes them easier to handle while you're embroidering. Trim away the rough edges of the hole so you can see how big it really is. Then decide on a circular shape for the patch area. Trace around the embroidery hoop you want to use and cut along that line so the hole becomes a neat circle. It doesn't need to be perfect. A slightly wonky circle still looks cute.

Step 2 — Cut a denim patch to sit behind the hole

Take your patch fabric from an old pair of jeans, stretch it out and check that it's about the right size. Trim it so it fits behind the circle, but don't cut it as a circle. Cut a big square instead, so there's more fabric working with the mend. If you're patching both knees, cut a duplicate patch for the second knee now, so you know how big it needs to be. Then place the patch behind the hole.

Step 3 — Choose your thread and pin the patch

Pick embroidery floss colours you like. Here, black is used first, then a very dark blue, plus a dark grey when the black ran out. Then pin the patch in place. This is an important step, because the patch wiggles around while you're hand embroidering. Use as many pins as you can before you start.

Step 4 — Stitch horizontal running-stitch lines

Work a straight running stitch all the way across from one side of the leg to the other, then change direction and come back down. Use three strands of floss. Embroidery floss comes with six strands, so divide it in half. Re-pin as needed and keep stitching bit by bit, all the way down. Once the lines reach the patch, the floss holds the patch to the jeans, which mends the knee and creates the embroidered look at the same time. Wear a thimble, because after a while thick denim starts to give your fingers nicks and makes them sore as you push the needle through. About halfway through the patch, try working from the bottom up. The lines coming down from the top can start to curve, and working from the other direction keeps them straighter without it looking forced.

Step 5 — Add vertical lines to lock it in

The horizontal lines alone look great and you could stop here, but adding perpendicular lines makes the patch much stronger. Switch to a very dark blue and stitch vertical running-stitch lines across the patch, again using three strands at a time. This secures everything more tightly, and once you've stitched through all the layers it feels like a whole new fabric, with a different weight and a softer feel than plain denim. When it's finished, the knee is strong and looks as though it was meant to be that way. The circle and lines start to resemble a planet, and the second knee is worked in the planet-themed embroidery tutorial.

Frequently asked questions

What materials do I need to patch a jeans knee with embroidery?
You will need a pair of jeans with a worn knee, scissors, an embroidery hoop for tracing the circle, a thimble, a sewing needle, pins, embroidery floss, and denim for the patch. The patch denim can come from an old pair of jeans. Dark floss colours such as black, very dark blue and dark grey give a strong, cohesive look.

How many strands of embroidery floss should I use for Sashiko-style mending?
Use three strands at a time. Embroidery floss comes with six strands, so divide it in half and stitch with three.

Why do I need a thimble for hand-mending denim?
Denim is thick and stiff, and after a while pushing the needle through it can leave your fingers with little nicks and cuts and make them sore. A thimble makes it much easier to push the needle through.

Why cut the denim patch as a square if the hole is a circle?
A larger square patch gives you more fabric working with the mend than a patch cut to the exact shape of the circle. Cut the hole as a neat circle, then trim the patch into a big square that fits behind it.

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