Materials & tools you'll need
Naturally dyed wool yarn, approximately 300–400 yards · US 7 (4.5mm) knitting needles · Tapestry needle · Yarn needle for seaming · Stitch marker · Tailor's measuring tape · Scissors
Step 1 — Knit a gauge swatch
Before casting on for the hat, knit a gauge swatch to confirm that your tension matches the pattern. Cast on 40 stitches using your US 7 (4.5mm) needles and work in stockinette stitch — knitting every right-side row and purling every wrong-side row — for at least 4 inches. Lay the swatch flat without stretching it and measure across 4 inches (10 cm): you should count 18 stitches and 26 rows within that measurement. If your stitch count is higher than 18 (stitches are smaller than expected), try going up one needle size. If your count is lower than 18 (stitches are larger), try going down a size. Getting gauge right before you start means the finished toque will measure approximately 20 inches in circumference and fit comfortably on most adult heads without being too tight or too loose.
Step 2 — Cast on and work the ribbed brim
Using your US 7 needles and naturally dyed wool yarn, cast on 60 stitches. Place a stitch marker and join to work in the round if using circular or double-pointed needles, being careful not to twist the cast-on. Work the brim in a simple knit-one purl-one or knit-two purl-two rib pattern — alternating knit and purl stitches across every round — for approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm). The ribbing creates a stretchy, self-tightening brim that grips the head comfortably and folds up neatly if you prefer a doubled cuff. Keep your tension relaxed through the brim rows; ribbing worked too tightly will not stretch enough to pull the hat on easily, while ribbing worked too loosely will sag and lose its shape after a few wears. Try the brim on periodically as you work to check that it sits snugly without pulling.
Step 3 — Work the stockinette body
Once the ribbed brim measures approximately 3 inches, switch to stockinette stitch by knitting every round. Continue working in stockinette until the total circumference of the hat — brim and body combined — measures between 20 and 22 inches (51–56 cm), depending on your head size and how much ease you prefer. Try the hat on over your head every few inches to check the fit and length; the body should sit comfortably above the ears with a small amount of positive ease. If you need to join a new ball of yarn mid-body, do so at the beginning of a round rather than mid-round — this keeps the join at the least visible point. Leave a 6-inch tail on both the old and new yarn, hold them together for the first few stitches to anchor them, then weave both tails in separately with the tapestry needle once the hat is complete.
Step 4 — Shape the crown
When the hat body has reached the desired length, begin the crown decreases to close the top of the toque. Work decreases every fourth round using the knit-two-together (k2tog) method: knit to four stitches before your marker, k2tog, knit two, then continue around the round, working additional evenly spaced k2tog decreases at regular intervals. Work the two plain rounds between each decrease round without any shaping to let the fabric relax between decrease rows. Repeat the decrease pattern — one decrease round followed by two plain rounds — until approximately 16 to 20 stitches remain on your needle. The crown will gather inward naturally as the stitch count drops, creating a smooth, rounded top without any bunching or puckering if the decreases are spaced evenly.
Step 5 — Bind off and finish
Once approximately 16 to 20 stitches remain, cut the yarn leaving a tail of about 10 inches. Thread the tail onto your tapestry needle and draw it through all remaining live stitches, slipping them off the knitting needle as you go. Pull the tail firmly to cinch the top of the hat closed, then pass the needle through the gathered stitches once more in the opposite direction to secure them, and push the tail to the inside of the hat. Weave in all remaining yarn ends on the inside of the hat, threading each tail through the backs of several stitches in at least two directions before trimming close to the fabric. Sew any side seam closed with the yarn needle if you worked flat rather than in the round. Naturally dyed wool can felt if washed roughly or in hot water — hand wash the finished toque in cool water with a gentle wool wash and reshape it while damp, then lay it flat to dry.
Frequently asked questions
How do I ensure a proper fit when knitting a beanie hat?
Knit a gauge swatch of 40 stitches before starting the hat. Your
swatch should measure 18 stitches and 26 rows per 4 inches (10 cm)
on US 7 (4.5mm) needles. If your swatch is too tight, go up a
needle size; if it is too loose, go down a size. Getting gauge
right at the start means the finished toque will measure
approximately 20 inches in circumference and fit comfortably on
most adult heads.
How do I shape the crown of a knitted beanie hat?
Begin crown shaping once the body of the hat reaches the correct
height. Decrease every fourth row by knitting two stitches
together (k2tog) at regular intervals across the round, working
plain rows in between each decrease row. Continue until
approximately 16 to 20 stitches remain on the needle, then cut
the yarn leaving a long tail, thread it through the remaining
stitches, pull tight to close the top, and secure the end on
the inside.
How do I join a new ball of yarn neatly when knitting a hat?
Join new yarn at the beginning of a round rather than mid-round
wherever possible — this keeps the join at the least visible point.
Leave a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm) on both the old and new
yarn, hold both tails together for the first few stitches to
anchor them, then weave both tails in separately with a tapestry
needle once the hat is complete. Avoid tying knots, as these can
create bumps that show through the fabric.
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