Materials & tools you'll need
Bernat Craft or Handicraft Cotton yarn (or any soft, medium-weight yarn) · 4mm aluminum crochet hook · Sharp scissors
Step 1 — Work the foundation chain
Make a slipknot and work a foundation chain in multiples of 10, plus 6 extra chains. For example, if you want a chain of 30, work an additional 6 chains for a total of 36. Those extra 6 chains are what make the finished pattern symmetrical from edge to edge, so don't skip them even if you're adjusting the width of your project.
Step 2 — Work Row 1 in both loops
Skip the chain on the hook and slip stitch into the second chain from the hook, then continue with slip stitches for a total of 5 stitches. Switch to half double crochet for the next 5 stitches, then back to slip stitch for 5, alternating 5 slip stitches and 5 half double crochets all the way across the row. This first row is worked into both loops of each chain as normal.
Step 3 — Work Row 2 in the back loop only
Chain 1 and turn. This row repeats the same 5-slip-stitch, 5-half-double-crochet sequence as Row 1, but from here on every stitch is worked into the back loop only rather than both loops. Working in the back loop is what creates the ridge that becomes the wave effect, so count carefully — it's easy for the pattern to drift off-center if a stitch is missed.
Step 4 — Shift the pattern on Row 3
Chain 2 this time (rows that begin with half double crochet need the extra height of a chain-2 turn, while rows beginning with slip stitch only need a chain-1 turn) and turn your work. Work this row starting with 5 half double crochets where the previous row had slip stitches, then 5 slip stitches where the previous row had half double crochets — still working into the back loop only throughout. This offset is what fills in the dips and starts forming the visible wave shape.
Step 5 — Continue the 4-row repeat
Continue alternating rows in this pattern — chain 1 and turn for rows beginning with slip stitch, chain 2 and turn for rows beginning with half double crochet, always working into the back loop only after Row 1. Each complete wave takes 2 rows to form, so think of the pattern in groups of 4 rows. Repeat this 4-row cycle until your project reaches your desired length, making sure to finish on a complete group of 4 rows so the top edge ends with a scalloped wave rather than a flat edge.
Step 6 — Finish and weave in ends
The wave stitch has a clear right side (the wavy, honeycomb-like texture) and wrong side (straighter horizontal bars), so plan to fasten off on a wrong-side row. Cut your yarn, pull the tail through the final loop, and weave the tail through several nearby stitches with a tapestry needle to secure it, then trim any excess. Block or wash your finished piece if desired to help the wave texture lie flat and even.
Frequently asked questions
What is the wave stitch in crochet?
The wave stitch is a reversible crochet pattern that creates a
honeycomb-like wavy texture on the right side and a straighter,
ribbed texture on the wrong side. It's built by alternating
blocks of slip stitches and half double crochet stitches across
each row.
What materials do I need to crochet the wave stitch?
You'll need a medium-weight cotton yarn such as Bernat Craft or
Handicraft Cotton, a 4mm aluminum crochet hook, and a pair of
sharp scissors.
Why does the wave stitch look different on the front and back?
After the first row, every stitch is worked into the back loop
only rather than both loops. This creates a raised ridge that
produces the wavy, honeycomb-like texture on the right side,
while the wrong side shows straighter horizontal bars.
Enjoyed this tutorial?
Find 60+ free tutorials on YouTube. Grab a pattern from the Etsy shop, or go deeper with a community membership.
Free tutorials on YouTube → Shop on Etsy → Join the community →