Materials & tools you'll need

Weight 3 cotton yarn · 4mm crochet hook · Scissors · Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Step 1 — Create the foundation chain

Begin with a slipknot, then chain 24 stitches for the foundation row. Using an even number of chains is important — it ensures the row both starts and ends with a double crochet, which is what the up and down stitch pattern requires to stay consistent. If you want a wider or narrower piece, adjust the chain count in even increments (adding or subtracting 2 at a time). Keep your tension relaxed and even across all 24 chains — tight foundation chains make the first row harder to work into and can cause the bottom edge to pull inward.

Step 2 — Work row 1

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work a double crochet (dc): yarn over, insert the hook into the chain, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops. In the next chain, work a single crochet (sc): insert the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops. Continue alternating — one dc, one sc — all the way across the foundation chain. The row ends with a double crochet in the last chain. Both the first and last stitches of row 1 are double crochets, which sets up the reversal pattern correctly for row 2.

Step 3 — Turn and chain 1

At the end of row 1, chain 1 and turn the work around. The chain 1 acts as the turning chain and does not count as a stitch — do not work into it at the beginning of the next row. Skip the first stitch (the double crochet at the end of the previous row that now sits directly below the turning chain) and begin working into the second stitch instead. This skipped stitch is accounted for by the turning chain and keeping it unworked prevents an extra stitch building up at the edge of the fabric.

Step 4 — Work row 2 with reversed stitches

Row 2 is the mirror image of row 1 — work the opposite stitch into every stitch you encounter. Where row 1 had a single crochet, work a double crochet; where row 1 had a double crochet, work a single crochet. So the first stitch you work into (which was a sc in row 1) gets a dc, the next stitch (which was a dc in row 1) gets a sc, and so on all the way across. This reversal is what creates the interlocking up and down texture — the taller and shorter stitches nest into each other row by row, producing the characteristic even, rippled surface. Row 2 ends with a single crochet, so the first and last stitches of row 2 are both single crochets.

Step 5 — Repeat to desired size and finish

Chain 1, turn, and continue repeating rows 1 and 2 alternately until the piece reaches your desired length. For a square washcloth or dishcloth, keep working until the length of the rectangle equals its width. The texture becomes more defined and pronounced with each pair of rows added, so the finished fabric looks much richer than the individual stitches suggest. When the piece is the size you want, fasten off and leave a tail of around 15cm. Thread the tail onto a yarn needle and weave it securely through several stitches in two directions before trimming. Weave in any other ends the same way for a clean, durable finish.

Frequently asked questions

What materials do I need for the up and down stitch crochet project?
You will need weight 3 cotton yarn, a 4mm crochet hook, scissors, and a yarn needle for weaving in ends.

How many chain stitches do I need to start the up and down stitch?
Chain 24 stitches for the foundation row. Using an even number of chains means the row starts and ends with a double crochet, which is what the up and down stitch pattern requires. You can adjust the number up or down in even increments to make the piece wider or narrower.

What is the difference between row 1 and row 2 in the up and down stitch?
In row 1, you work alternating double crochet and single crochet stitches across — the first and last stitches are both double crochets. In row 2, you do the exact opposite of every stitch you encounter: where you worked a double crochet in row 1, you now work a single crochet, and vice versa. This reversal is what creates the interlocking up and down texture.

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