Materials & tools you'll need
Sport weight yarn in two colours — a main colour and a contrast colour (Lion Brand Vintage Yarn works well) · 5mm aluminum or plastic crochet hook · Tapestry needle for weaving in ends · Stitch markers · Approximately 1000–1500 yards of yarn total for a size medium
Step 1 — Work the ribbed cuff
Using your main colour of sport weight yarn and the 5mm hook, chain 77 and work a double crochet (dc) into the fourth chain from the hook, then continue in double crochet across the rest of the chain. Chain 2 and turn to complete row 1. For row 2, work front post double crochet (fpdc) into the first two stitches, back post double crochet (bpdc) into the next two, and repeat this pattern across the row. For row 3, reverse the sequence — bpdc into the first two stitches, fpdc into the next two — and repeat across. Alternate rows 2 and 3 for a total of about 7 rows to build a 2x2 rib stitch cuff roughly 3 inches long, weaving in ends as you go. This rib section is fully customizable — work more or fewer rows if you'd like a longer or shorter cuff.
Step 2 — Switch colours and begin the body
Once the rib cuff is the length you want, switch to your contrast colour to begin the jumper body. Start the first body row as a regular double crochet row, but on the final stitch, complete the last yarn over and pull-through with the new colour so the transition happens cleanly at the end of the row. From here, chain 1 and work a half double crochet (hdc) into every stitch all the way across, going under the whole stitch into the gap left by the front post and back post double crochets from the rib section. This hdc row is row 8 of the pattern.
Step 3 — Continue the color-blocked hdc body
For rows 9 through 21, work half double crochet all the way across, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row. Change colours as often as you like through this section — the sample jumper uses a fresh colour roughly every ten rows, but you can follow that rhythm or work the whole body in one colour if you prefer a simpler look. Keep your stitch count consistent across every row so the body stays an even rectangle before shaping begins.
Step 4 — Shape the front piece
At row 22, slip stitch across the first 13 stitches, chain 2, then work hdc across the row, leaving the last 12 stitches unworked — this begins shaping the neckline and armhole opening. For rows 23 through 58, work hdc straight across with no further shaping, adding colour changes here if you like. At row 59, hdc into the first 19 stitches, then turn without chaining at the end of the row. At row 60, slip stitch across the first 3 stitches, chain 2, and hdc across the remainder of the row, chaining 1 and turning at the end. Continue the shaping through rows 61 and 62 by working hdc into the first 16 stitches, then slip stitching across the first 3 stitches and hdc across the rest. From rows 63 through 68, hdc into the first 12 stitches, chain 1, turn, and hdc back across those same 12 stitches each time, building up one shoulder. Repeat the same shaping sequence on the opposite side to complete the front piece.
Step 5 — Shape the back piece
Return to row 58 — the point where the front and back pieces begin to differ — and work the same shaping sequence described in Step 4 (rows 59 through 68) to build the back piece. Because the back typically has a simpler neckline than the front, you can work this shaping a little more shallowly if you prefer, but keeping it identical to the front is the simplest way to get two panels that match up cleanly when seamed together.
Step 6 — Seam and finish the jumper
With the front and back panels complete, seam the shoulders and sides together, leaving openings for the neckline and the puffed sleeves. Weave in all remaining yarn tails securely with the tapestry needle, threading each one through several neighbouring stitches before trimming. Block the finished jumper to help it hold its shape and even out the rib and hdc sections. Your voluminous, puffy jumper with puffed sleeves is ready to wear or gift.
Frequently asked questions
Can I adjust the length of the rib stitch cuff on this crochet jumper?
Yes, the 2x2 rib stitch cuff is fully customizable. The pattern
works it for about 3 inches over 7 rows, but you can work more
or fewer rows of the fpdc/bpdc rib pattern to get the cuff
length you prefer before switching to the half double crochet
body.
Can I use a different yarn weight for this puffy jumper?
This pattern is written for sport weight yarn with a 5mm hook,
which gives the jumper its soft, puffy drape. Switching to a
heavier yarn weight, such as worsted, will produce a bulkier
fabric and a larger finished size, so you would need to adjust
your hook size and stitch counts to compensate.
How do I size this puffy jumper up or down?
The pattern is worked flat in rows, so you can size it up or
down by adjusting the width of the starting foundation chain
and the overall body length before beginning the front and back
shaping, keeping your stitch count in a multiple that matches
the rib pattern repeat.
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