Materials & tools you'll need

Briggs and Little Regal Weight wool in two colours — a naturally dyed shade (such as a green and blue dyed with onion skins and concord grapes) and a solid colour (such as a yellow White O) · 5mm crochet hook · Scissors · Measuring tape · Yarn or tapestry needle, for weaving in ends

Step 1 — Chain and rib the bottom edge

This vest is worked measurement-wise rather than by strict stitch count, so feel free to adjust sizing as you go. Using your solid colour, make a slipknot and chain 57. Double crochet into the fourth chain from the hook, then double crochet all the way across. Chain 2 and turn. For row 2, work front post double crochet into the first stitch, then back post double crochet into the next, repeating that pattern across the row. For row 3, reverse it — back post double crochet first, then front post double crochet, repeating across. Row 4 repeats row 2, and row 5 repeats row 3, giving you five rows of ribbing in total, or about 2 inches. You can work more rows for wider ribbing, or fewer for narrower ribbing. Just before finishing your final double crochet of the ribbing, switch to your naturally dyed contrast yarn, complete the stitch, chain 1, and turn.

Step 2 — Work the body in single crochet

From row 6 through row 14, single crochet in every stitch all the way across, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row. Repeat this until you complete row 14 — this straightforward stretch builds the body of the vest before the armhole shaping begins.

Step 3 — Shape the armholes

After row 14, chain 1 and turn. For row 15, slip stitch into the first two stitches of the row, chain 1, then single crochet all the way across, leaving the last stitch unworked. The first slip stitch leaves a gap, and the second slip stitch plus chain 1 counts as your first single crochet, so only the final stitch of the row goes unworked. Repeat this same pattern — slip stitch into the first two stitches, chain 1, single crochet across, leave the last stitch unworked — for rows 16 through 20. This gradual reduction on both sides begins curving in the armpit shaping.

Step 4 — Work straight rows above the armholes

For rows 21 through 24, single crochet straight across with no shaping, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row. This section is worked identically for both the front and back pieces, so you can treat rows 21–24 as the shared starting point before the two pieces diverge.

Step 5 — Shape the front V-neck

Switch to your solid colour. To keep the V-neck perfectly symmetrical, count in from either end of the row to find the exact middle stitch and mark it. Finish the stitch you're on with the new colour, then single crochet all the way to the marked middle stitch, including a single crochet into that stitch itself. For the next row, skip the first stitch, single crochet into the second stitch, turn without chaining, then single crochet across to the end. Chain 1 and turn as usual at the end of that row. Continue this pattern — skip the first stitch, single crochet into the second, single crochet across — for row 29 and onward, reducing one stitch each row along the V-neck side while keeping the opposite side straight. This straight-line reduction continues all the way from row 25 through row 40. Repeat the entire V-neck shaping process as a mirror image for the other side of the front piece.

Step 6 — Shape the front shoulder

Starting at row 41, work two single crochets into the first stitch on the outside shoulder edge, then single crochet across as normal. Turn at the end of the row, still skipping the first stitch on the V-neck side, and single crochet across. Repeat the two-single-crochet increase in the first stitch on rows 43, 45, and 47, with a normal row in between each — this gradually shifts the shoulder to run parallel with the V-neck. After row 47, stop the increases and work rows 49 through 54 as plain single crochet across, which finishes the front shoulder. Keep reducing the V-neck side until your shoulder narrows to about 10 to 12 stitches wide, adjusting slightly for a larger or smaller fit.

Step 7 — Work the back piece to match

Starting again from row 24, single crochet straight across for rows 25 through 50 — the back piece matches the front exactly up to this point. Switch colours periodically as you like for contrast. As you approach row 36, continue single crocheting across with your naturally dyed yarn, then switch to your solid colour for row 37. For row 38, increase at both ends of the row by working two single crochets into the first stitch and two into the last stitch, with a single stitch in every stitch in between. Work a plain row after that increase, then repeat the same double increase on row 40, followed by another plain row on row 41. Continue in plain single crochet across rows 42 through 50 — this widens the back shoulders to match the front.

Step 8 — Shape the back neckline

On row 51, single crochet into the first 16 stitches only, then turn. Slip stitch into the first four stitches, chain 1, then single crochet across. On the next row, single crochet into the first 12 stitches, turn, slip stitch into the first three stitches, chain 1, and single crochet across. Continue this stepped reduction — slip-stitching into a few stitches each time to create a staircase curve — until the back neckline narrows to match your shoulder width from the front, generally 10 to 15 stitches. Work a few extra rows back and forth at that final stitch count if you want a little more length in reserve before finishing.

Step 9 — Block and assemble the vest

Block both the front and back pieces before assembling — the shoulder sections on this vest tend to curl in on themselves, especially if you crochet tightly, and blocking helps them lie flat. Once both pieces are dry, lay the front and back pieces with their front sides together. Slip stitch across each shoulder seam, working through both layers of fabric, then fasten off and trim, weaving in the ends later. For the side seams, single crochet the ribbed portion together in your solid colour, then switch to your naturally dyed yarn to single crochet the rest of the side seam, which gives a secure, bound finish. Repeat on the other side seam. Finally, single crochet all the way around the neckline in your solid colour to finish the edge, then weave in all remaining ends with your yarn needle. Your cropped, naturally dyed V-neck vest is ready to wear.

Frequently asked questions

What materials do I need for this vest?
You'll need Briggs and Little Regal Weight wool in two colours — one naturally dyed shade (such as a green and blue dyed with onion skins and concord grapes) and one solid colour (such as a yellow White O) — a 5mm crochet hook, scissors, a measuring tape, and a yarn or tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

What size is the finished vest?
The front piece measures about 17 inches across the waist, 13 inches across the chest, and 19 inches in total height, with the V splitting about 6.5 inches from the top. The back piece measures about 18 inches across the waist and 14 to 15 inches across the chest and shoulders. Shoulder straps on both pieces are about 3 inches, or 10 stitches, wide.

How do I shape the V-neck and shoulders?
The front V-neck is shaped with a straight-line stitch reduction on the inside edge of each side, worked over many rows, while periodic increases on the outside edge shift the shoulder to run parallel with the V-neck. The back neckline is shaped later with short-row reductions, slip-stitching into the first few stitches of each row to curve the neckline down to match shoulder width.

Why is blocking important for this project?
The shoulder pieces on this vest tend to curl in on themselves, especially for tighter crocheters, so blocking both the front and back pieces before assembly helps them lie flat and keeps the finished shoulder shaping looking clean.

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