How to Crochet a Cropped Striped Pullover Sweater with Ribbed Cuffs

Materials & tools you'll need

Step 1 — Plan the look and the measurements

The goal here is a sweater that is baggy and cropped, with short sleeves, ribbing at the waist, cuffs and neck, and stripes. The colours are rose, teal blue and gold, and the gold is used for the ribbed waistband, the cuffs and the collar. Every sweater is really just four rectangles: two body pieces and two sleeves. You change the shapes and the stitches to get the style you want.

Each body piece on this sweater is 16 inches wide at the waist, 34 inches wide at the top, and 12 inches tall. The shoulder area is wide because it forms part of the sleeve. For the height, hold a piece up to your body: measuring from the top of the shoulder down, 12 inches lands just below the bust at the narrowest part of the waist. This sweater is cropped, but you can keep going to make yours as long as you want.

Step 2 — Chain and work the ribbed waistband

Starting with gold, chain 75. (In the video there are a few extra chains, but the double crochets stop at 75.) Double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook, taking up just one loop of each chain, and double crochet across. This row is the bottom of the waistband and sets you up for the ribbing.

Chain 2 and turn. Work front post and back post double crochet alternately across, which is the simplest rib stitch for sweaters. One stitch will be left at the end of the row that isn't a post stitch, and it is worked as a regular double crochet. Chain 2, turn, and the pattern reverses: where you worked a front post, you now work a back post, and the other way around. Repeat for 5 rows of ribbing in total, and finish on a wrong-side row, because colour changes look prettier when you finish on the wrong side. For a slower walk-through, see the front post and back post double crochet ribbed stitch tutorial.

Step 3 — Expand the body and work the stripes

Switch to rose and work one row of half double crochet in every stitch across. The next row widens the body: the ribbing is the right width for the waist, but the shoulders and rib cage need more room. Work two half double crochets in the first stitch, one in the next, two in the next, one in the next, and so on across, so that every other stitch is doubled. For a very baggy sweater, work two half double crochets in every stitch. For a fitted one, put two in every third stitch instead.

After this single increase row there are no more increases: work half double crochet straight up. The stripe sequence runs from rose to teal blue like this: 5 rows rose and 1 row teal blue, then 4 rose and 2 blue, 3 rose and 3 blue, 2 rose and 4 blue, and 1 rose and 5 blue. That's 30 rows. Keep working in teal blue until the body reaches 12 inches, and cover or weave in the yarn at each colour change as you go. If you'd rather skip the stripes, just keep going in a single colour or try colour blocks. Make two identical pieces for the front and back.

Step 4 — Crochet the sleeves (make two)

Start with gold again and chain 33. Double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook and across, then work 5 rows of front post and back post double crochet ribbing for the cuff. The cuff comes out slightly snug after washing, so if you want a roomier one, or you're a size 6 or 8 up top, start with a chain of 35 or 37.

Chain 1 and turn, then work half double crochet in every stitch across, putting the hook under the whole stitch rather than into the top. Now taper the sleeve: on the next row work two half double crochets in the first stitch and two in the last, then one regular row, and repeat. That is an increase at both ends of every other row. For baggier sleeves, increase at both ends of every row. The stripe sequence is the same as the body (5 rose and 1 blue, 4 and 2, 3 and 3, 2 and 4, 1 and 5). Make the second sleeve exactly the same. The body was a perfect fit, but if you make it again, consider making the sleeves a little wider.

Step 5 — Wash and block the pieces

Wash and block all four pieces following your yarn's care instructions. This wool is thin, but it's very warm. The drape of the fabric changes a little after blocking, which is normal. The finished body fit well, and after a second wash there was a bit of shrinkage, which another block fixed.

Step 6 — Sew the pieces together

First decide how wide the neck opening should be. Count the stitches you want to leave open, and use the same number on each side of both the front and back pieces. The exact number doesn't matter. It was about 25 here, and if you're unsure, start with 10, try it on, then try 20. For an off-the-shoulder sweater, make the opening larger. Using a yarn needle and a blanket stitch (see the blanket stitch tutorial), sew the front and back together at the shoulders, from where you've marked the opening. Weave in the ends when you finish.

Next attach the sleeves. Line up the edges of each sleeve at the point where the rose meets the blue, at both ends, so the sleeves are symmetrical, and blanket stitch them on. Fold each sleeve right sides together to check it, then turn the sweater inside out and blanket stitch the underarm and side seams. Use blue thread for everything except the gold cuffs, which get gold so that the blue doesn't show through. Half double crochet is one of the easiest stitches to sew together, because the stitches are clear and easy to see.

Step 7 — Shape the neckline and add the collar

To make the sweater sit higher on the shoulders instead of hanging off them, taper the neck opening in a little. Work half double crochet around the opening, and crochet two stitches together at the corners where the front and back meet. Do this on both sides for two rounds. On the last round, work three regular half double crochets, then crochet two together, so you decrease about every fourth stitch. The opening gradually shrinks to the size you want.

Finally switch back to gold and work the ribbed collar around the neck. Work one round of double crochet, then front post and back post double crochet in the round until the ribbing is as deep as you'd like. It may look a bit unusual until it's blocked, but blocking stretches it out and it settles into place.

Frequently asked questions

What materials do I need to crochet a cropped striped pullover sweater?
The sweater in the video uses Briggs and Little Sportweight wool in three colours (rose, teal blue and gold), a crochet hook and a yarn needle for sewing the pieces together.

How do I make this crochet pullover baggier or more fitted?
It comes down to how often you increase. On the body's single increase row, working two half double crochets in every other stitch gives a roomy but balanced fit. Working two in every stitch makes it extremely baggy, and working two in every third stitch makes it much more fitted. On the sleeves, increasing at both ends of every other row gives a gentle taper, and increasing at both ends of every row makes the sleeves baggier.

How do I size the neck opening on a crochet pullover?
Count the stitches you want to leave open and use the same number on each side, on both the front and back pieces. The exact number doesn't matter. On this sweater it was about 25 stitches. If you're not sure, start with 10, try the sweater on, and then try 20. For an off-the-shoulder pullover, make the neck opening larger.

What colour yarn should I use to sew the seams?
Use blue for most of the seams, but sew the gold cuffs with gold, because blue thread would show through the bright gold. The rose stripes are less obvious, so blue works there too.

How big should I make the sleeve cuffs?
The cuffs here start with a chain of 33. After washing and blocking, the wool shrank a little and the cuffs came out slightly snug, though not tight. For a roomier cuff, or if you're a size 6 or 8 up top, start with a chain of 35 or 37 instead.

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