How to Crochet a Cropped Pullover Sweater

Materials & tools you'll need

Step 1 — Make the front and back panels

Make a slip knot and chain 73. Work a double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook, then double crochet across the row. You should have 71 double crochet stitches. Chain 2, turn, and work the ribbed row by alternating one front post double crochet (fpdc) with one back post double crochet (bpdc) all the way across. If those two stitches are new to you, the front post and back post ribbed stitch tutorial walks through them. Work the ribbing rows as shown in Part 1 of the video.

Next, chain 2, turn, and work a half double crochet (hdc) in each stitch across. Chain 4 and turn to start the net. For the first net row, skip the chain and the first real stitch, then work a double crochet into the next stitch. After that, chain 2, skip the next stitch, work a double crochet into the following stitch, and repeat to the end of the row. On every row after that, chain 4, work a double crochet into the next big space (the gap made by the chain 2), then chain 2 and double crochet into the next big space. Repeat to the end of the row. Follow the same pattern for a total of 13 rows of net.

Finish the panel with one row of half double crochet. Chain 2, then work hdc across, putting a stitch into the top of each double crochet and working under the chains into the large gaps. Then make a second panel exactly the same. One is the front and one is the back.

Step 2 — Make the sleeves

Make a slip knot and chain 31. Double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook and across the row, which gives you 29 stitches. Chain 2, turn, and work one row alternating fpdc and bpdc. On the next row, chain 2, turn, and alternate bpdc and fpdc instead, so the ribs line up with the row below. Keep going this way for a total of 5 rows of ribbing for the cuff.

Work one row of half double crochet across, then work the net exactly as you did on the body panels. Start with the chain 4 row that skips the chain and the first real stitch, then use the chain 4 and chain 2 rows that work into the big spaces. Make 20 rows of net. Then make a second sleeve exactly the same.

Step 3 — Block all the pieces

Check that you have four pieces: two body panels and two sleeves. Soak them, squeeze out the water, and lay each piece flat to dry overnight. Let them dry completely before you start sewing. Blocking helps the net fabric lie flat and makes everything much easier to line up for seaming.

Step 4 — Find the front and join the shoulders

Start by working out which panel is the front. The ribbed edge tells you. On the front there is an edge and then the rib. On the back there is an edge, a space, and then the rib.

Cut a few short lengths of contrasting scrap yarn to mark where the shoulder seams start and stop. Hold the two panels together and count 10 spaces in from the outer edge. Tie a marker at that point on both panels so you know exactly where to end. Your own count may differ depending on your gauge, so adjust it to match the shoulder width you want. Leave the middle open for the neck. Starting from the outer corner, join the panels along the top edge until you reach the marker. You can single crochet, slip stitch, or sew it up by hand with a whip stitch. The half double crochet row at the top of each panel makes this join easier. Flip the sweater over and repeat on the other shoulder.

Step 5 — Try it on before going further

Once the shoulders are joined, put the sweater on. This is the time to find out whether the neck opening is the size you want, because it is much easier to add stitches or make adjustments now than after everything is sewn together. If it fits the way you like, carry on.

Step 6 — Sew in the sleeves

Spread the sweater out flat. The shoulder seam you made shows on the side that will be visible once the sweater is finished, and the other side is the wrong side. Take a sleeve and find its front using the ribbing, just as you did with the body. Turn the sleeve so the front faces away from you, then fold it in half to find its middle and mark it. Use that mark to position the sleeve against the body.

Sew the sleeve on rather than crocheting it. The stitches on the sleeve and the body run in different directions, and you want to keep the seam tight and subtle. Cut a length of yarn about double the length of the seam, thread it onto your yarn needle, and whip stitch the sleeve in place. Repeat with the second sleeve.

Step 7 — Close the side and sleeve seams

Fold the sweater with the right sides touching and the seams you have made so far on the outside, as shown in the video. Fold each sleeve in half along the top seam, then stitch all the way along that line with a whip stitch or a blanket stitch. The video uses a blanket stitch. Check that the sleeve is symmetrical before you start, then do the exact same thing on the other side.

Step 8 — Work the collar and finish the edges

Turn the sweater right side in and join your yarn at the neckline. Chain 1, then work half double crochet around the neck, working a half double crochet two together after every third stitch. Do two rounds like this. The decreases pull the neckline up so it is not quite as far off the shoulder.

Now work the same ribbing you used on the cuffs: front post double crochet and back post double crochet all the way around. Do at least two rounds, and three if you can manage it, so the rib really shows. Then switch to single crochet and work a tight round in every stitch around the top. The collar has slightly less ribbing than the sleeves, so it does not end up as wide.

To finish, work one round of single crochet around the bottom edge and around each cuff. Join your yarn at an existing tail so there is less to weave in later. Weave in all the remaining ends with the yarn needle, and try on your finished cropped pullover.

Frequently asked questions

What materials do I need to crochet a cropped pullover sweater?
You will need a 5mm crochet hook and about 1000 yards of white cotton yarn (the sweater in the video uses Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in white). You will also need a short length of contrasting scrap yarn for marking the shoulder seams, a yarn needle for sewing the pieces together, and scissors.

How do I block the pieces before sewing the sweater together?
Soak the finished panels and sleeves, squeeze out the water, and lay each piece flat to dry overnight. Let everything dry completely before you start seaming so the pieces keep their shape and the seams line up.

How do I tell the front of the sweater from the back?
Check the edge where the ribbing is. On the front, the edge goes straight into the rib. On the back, there is an edge, then a gap, then the rib. The sleeves work the same way, so check the ribbing before you sew anything together.

Why sew the sleeves on by hand instead of crocheting them on?
The stitches on the sleeve run in a different direction from the stitches on the body, so crocheting the two together would be hard to keep neat. A whip stitch with a yarn needle keeps the seam tight and subtle.

How do I stop the neckline from sitting too far off the shoulder?
Try the sweater on after you join the shoulders, while you can still fix things. Then work two rounds of half double crochet with decreases around the neck opening to bring the neckline up, followed by two or three rounds of front post and back post double crochet ribbing.

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