How to Crochet the City Place Pullover

Part 1 — The body pieces

Part 1 covers the front and back of the pullover, from the ribbed band through the shoulder and neck shaping.

Part 2 — Sleeves and assembly

Part 2 covers the striped sleeves, putting the pullover together and the finishing touches.

Materials & tools you'll need

Fit: between a men's medium and large. The pattern is easy to adjust by changing the number of stitches, and the counts below are for the general shape. Colour changes are a guide too — use whatever colours you like.

Step 1 — Work the ribbed bottom band (Part 1)

With the black yarn and the 4mm hook, chain 79. Double crochet in the fourth chain from the hook, then double crochet across. Chain 1 and turn. For row 2, work a front post double crochet in the first stitch and a back post double crochet in the next, repeating across, then chain 1 and turn. Row 3 reverses the order — back post double crochet first, then front post — so the ribbing stays consistent. Repeat rows 2 and 3 once more, so row 4 matches row 2 and row 5 matches row 3. If you would like a deeper band, keep going on odd-numbered rows, or stop earlier for a shallower one. Whichever you choose, finish on the side where the tail of your original chain sits, then cut the black yarn.

Step 2 — Work the midnight blue body and sunset stripes

Join midnight blue and restart your row count at 1, since the rib is its own section. From here on, every row is half double crochet, worked underneath the entire stitch rather than just the top two loops. This is a style choice that helps the rib transition into the body, so you can use the top loops if you prefer. Row 1 is plain half double crochet across. Rows 2 and 4 are increase rows: work two half double crochets in the first stitch and two in the last, with half double crochet in every stitch between. All other rows are plain. Chain 1 and turn at the end of every row.

Work the colours in this order: midnight blue for rows 1–20, yellow for rows 21–28, horizon blue for rows 29–30, copper for rows 31–34, yellow for rows 35–36, copper for rows 37–42, horizon blue for rows 43–46, and navy blue for rows 47–48. This completes the body rectangle. Change colours wherever you like if you are using your own palette.

Step 3 — Shape the armholes and chest

Still in navy blue, begin the armhole shaping on the next row (row 49): slip stitch into the first 12 stitches, then chain 1. The chain counts as the twelfth stitch, so half double crochet across and leave the last 11 stitches unworked to keep the shaping symmetrical. Then work rows 50 through 64 in plain half double crochet, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row. To bring the sleeve further into the chest, slip stitch into 15 or 17 stitches instead of 12. You can also skip the shaping and leave the body a straight rectangle, which will only change the drape of the finished garment.

Step 4 — Shape the front shoulders and scoop neck

Stay in navy blue for the front. For row 65, work 19 half double crochets and turn without a chain. Row 66: skip the first stitch, half double crochet across, chain 1 and turn. Row 67: half double crochet into the first 16 stitches and turn. Row 68: skip the first stitch, half double crochet across, chain 1 and turn. Row 69: half double crochet into the first 14 stitches and turn. Row 70: skip the first stitch, half double crochet across, chain 1 and turn. Row 71: half double crochet into the first 12 stitches, chain 1 and turn. Row 72: half double crochet across the 12 stitches, then fasten off.

For the second shoulder, don't simply copy the first from the outer edge — the stripes won't line up where the stitches are picked up. Instead, count 19 stitches in from the first shoulder and join your yarn there with a loop and a chain 1, which counts as the first half double crochet. Half double crochet across. Next, half double crochet into the first 17 stitches and turn; skip the first stitch, half double crochet across, chain 1 and turn; half double crochet into the first 15 stitches and turn; skip the first stitch, half double crochet across, chain 1 and turn; half double crochet into the first 13 stitches and turn; skip the first stitch, half double crochet across, chain 1 and turn; then half double crochet into the first 12 stitches and fasten off. The stitch counts differ slightly from the first side because the reduction rows are worked in the opposite direction, but both shoulders end up identical.

Step 5 — Make the back piece and block both pieces

Work the back exactly like the front through row 64, then add six more plain half double crochet rows to bring the back up to height. For the first shoulder, half double crochet into the first 14 stitches and turn. Skip the first stitch, half double crochet across, chain 1 and turn. Half double crochet into the first 12 stitches, chain 1 and turn, then half double crochet across the 12 stitches and fasten off. For the second shoulder, count 14 stitches in from the first, join your yarn with a loop and a chain 1, and half double crochet across. Next, half double crochet into the first 12 stitches, chain 1 and turn, then work two more rows of 12 stitches and fasten off. The back neckline is much shallower than the front, but both shoulders end at 12 stitches so the pieces match when joined. Weave in the ends and block the front and back pieces while you work on the sleeves.

Step 6 — Crochet the striped sleeves (Part 2)

Start with the black yarn, a slip knot and the 4mm hook. Chain 35, double crochet in the fourth chain from the hook, then double crochet across, chain 2 and turn. Rows 2 and 3 use the same front post and back post double crochet rib as the body, just with fewer stitches: row 2 starts with a front post double crochet, then a back post double crochet, and repeats; row 3 reverses the order. Rows 4 and 5 repeat rows 2 and 3. Stop at row 5, or for a longer cuff keep going on odd-numbered rows up to about row 11. Cut the black yarn.

Join midnight blue and restart your count at 1. Row 1 is half double crochet across, again worked under the whole stitch. Then alternate an increase row — two half double crochets in the first stitch and two in the last — with a plain half double crochet row, up to row 46. The colour sequence is midnight blue for 20 rows, yellow for 8, horizon blue for 2, copper for 4, yellow for 2, copper for 6 and horizon blue for 4. Your last increase is on row 46. Switch to navy blue and work rows 47 through 62 in plain half double crochet with no increases. Add or remove rows to suit your arm length. Because the shaping comes from the increases at the ends of the rows, you can change the stitch in the middle freely: work into the top V of the stitch, use front loops or back loops only, add a bobble, or make an eyelet by chaining 2 and skipping 2 stitches. Make two sleeves.

Step 7 — Join the shoulders and set in the sleeves

Place the front and back pieces right sides together, so the seam will be on the inside. Join navy blue yarn with a loop through both pieces at the shoulder edge, chain 1 to secure, and slip stitch across the whole shoulder. Fasten off and repeat on the other shoulder. Then spread the body open with the shoulder seams facing up and switch to your yarn needle. Find the centre of each sleeve and fit it into the armhole, then sew it in all the way around with a blanket stitch in navy blue.

Step 8 — Close the side and sleeve seams

With the piece still inside out, fold it so the front and back body pieces sit on top of each other and each sleeve is folded in half. Slip stitch all the way along this edge, from the cuff down through the sleeve and the side of the body. You can colour-match the yarn to the stripes as you go. Turn the pullover right side out and try it on, or hold it up, to check that the neckline is the depth you want.

Step 9 — Finish the neckline, cuffs and bottom edge, then block

Join navy blue just after one of the shoulder seams, so the join doesn't show. Chain 2 and work double crochets all the way around the neckline, then work the front post and back post double crochet rib around the neck. Finish with one more round of slip stitches around the neck. Then slip stitch around each cuff and around the bottom band, in between the ribs, to tidy the edges. Weave in all remaining ends and block the pullover. The pullover is named for the Toronto neighbourhood where Laura lives, and the stripes are inspired by the sunrise and sunset colours she sees from her balcony.

Frequently asked questions

What yarn and tools do I need to crochet the City Place Pullover?
The pullover is made with Briggs & Little Regal wool in black, midnight blue, yellow, horizon blue, copper and navy blue, worked with a 4mm aluminum crochet hook. You will also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing the sleeves in, and a measuring tape is helpful for keeping track of size and stitches.

What size does the City Place Pullover fit, and how do I adjust it?
As written, the pullover fits somewhere between a men's medium and large. The pattern is easy to resize by changing the number of stitches in your foundation chain, and the stitch counts given are for the general shape. For the armholes you can slip stitch into 15 or 17 stitches instead of 12 to bring the sleeve further into the chest, or skip the armhole shaping altogether and leave the body a straight rectangle, which only changes how the garment drapes. The sleeve is also easy to lengthen or shorten by working more or fewer rows.

How do I make the ribbed band or cuff longer?
Keep alternating front post and back post double crochet rows, reversing the stitch order on every row. The bottom band is worked to row 5, but you can stop earlier or continue for a deeper rib. For a longer sleeve cuff you can keep going on odd-numbered rows, such as rows 7, 9 or even 11. Whatever length you choose, finish on the side where the tail of your original chain sits before you change colours.

How can I customize the stitch pattern on the sleeves?
Because the sleeve shape comes from the increases at each end of the rows, you can change the stitch in the middle without changing the shape. You can work into the top V of the stitch instead of under the whole stitch, work in the front loops only or the back loops only, add a bobble, or make an eyelet by chaining two and skipping two stitches.

Why is the front neckline lower than the back?
The front piece has a deeper scoop, created by the shoulder shaping, while the back has a much shallower neckline. Both shoulders still end at 12 stitches, so the pieces match up when joined. The shallow back sits across the neck and shoulders, and the deeper front scoop sits down like a crew neck.

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