Materials & tools you'll need

4mm aluminum crochet hook · Medium worsted weight cotton yarn, such as Bernat brand · Scissors

Step 1 — Make the foundation chain

Make a slipknot and chain in multiples of 8 to reach your desired width, then add 7 extra chains. For example, a base width of 24 would become a foundation chain of 31. Of those 7 extra chains, 4 become part of the basket weave pattern itself (keeping both edges symmetrical) and the remaining 3 act as the turning chain for your first row.

Step 2 — Work Row 1 in double crochet

Skip the first 2 chains and double crochet into the third chain, then continue double crocheting across the rest of the row as normal. This plain double crochet row gives you the posts you'll work into for the basket weave pattern in Row 2. Chain 2 to turn once you reach the end.

Step 3 — Work Row 2 with front post and back post double crochet

This is where the basket weave technique comes in. Rather than working into the top of each stitch, you'll work around the post — the vertical column — of the double crochets from Row 1. For a front post double crochet, insert your hook from the front of the work around the post; for a back post double crochet, insert your hook from the back of the work around the same post. Work 4 front post double crochets, then 4 back post double crochets, repeating this across the row. At the very end of the row, work a half double crochet into the last chain rather than a full double crochet — the post stitches sit shorter than a regular double crochet, so a half double keeps the edge level. Chain 2 to turn.

Step 4 — Keep the columns running the same direction for 4 rows

For the next few rows, look at the stitch directly below the one you're about to work and do the opposite: if it looks like a front post double crochet, work a back post double crochet into it, and vice versa. This keeps the columns running consistently in the same direction as Row 2, rather than flattening out into plain ribbing. Continue this for a total of 4 rows, always finishing each row with a half double crochet into the last chain and a chain 2 to turn.

Step 5 — Switch direction every 4 rows

After every 4 rows, reverse the pattern: wherever a stitch looks like a front post double crochet, work a back post double crochet into it instead, and wherever it looks like a back post, work a front post. This direction change is what actually creates the crosshatched, woven basket weave look — without it, the columns would just run straight instead of interlocking. Work 4 rows in this new direction before switching back again.

Step 6 — Repeat the 4-row direction changes

Continue alternating in blocks of 4 rows — one direction, then the reverse — until your piece reaches your desired size. Keep finishing every row with a half double crochet at the end and a chain 2 to turn. The basket weave pattern will become clearly visible after a couple of direction changes.

Step 7 — Finish with a plain double crochet row

End your project with one final row worked entirely in plain double crochet, with no front post or back post stitches, on the same side of the work as your very first row. This gives both ends of your piece a clean, matching border. Fasten off, pull the yarn through tightly, and weave in any loose ends to finish.

Frequently asked questions

What materials are needed for the basket weave stitch?
You'll need a 4mm aluminum crochet hook, medium worsted weight cotton yarn such as Bernat brand, and a pair of scissors.

What are front post and back post double crochet?
Both are double crochet stitches worked around the post (the vertical column) of a stitch from the previous row instead of into its top loops. A front post double crochet is worked by inserting your hook from the front of the fabric around the post; a back post double crochet is worked by inserting your hook from the back of the fabric around the same post.

Why does the basket weave pattern switch direction every 4 rows?
Switching direction every 4 rows is what creates the crosshatched, woven look the stitch is named for. Each new row is worked using the opposite post stitch from whatever sits directly below it, so the columns alternate between running vertically pulled forward and pushed back, forming the interlocking squares of a basket weave.

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