Materials & tools you'll need

Medium-weight yarn in brown heather, fern green, and fawn (roughly 600 yards total, depending on yarn thickness and gauge), plus an optional contrasting yarn for the ribbing · 5mm crochet hook for the body panels · 4mm crochet hook for the ribbing sections (cuffs, bottom edge, neckline) · Yarn needle or sewing needle · Scissors · Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends) · Stitch markers (optional)

Step 1 — Work the foundation chain

Using your 5mm hook and your first main colour, chain 75 to start the front body panel. This pattern works best with a foundation chain in a multiple of 10, plus an extra 5 chains, so you can scale the finished sweater up or down by adding or removing full multiples of 10 while keeping the proportions consistent. Keep your chain tension even throughout — a tight foundation chain makes the first row difficult to work into and can pucker the bottom edge of the panel.

Step 2 — Crochet the body panels

Starting in the fourth chain from the hook, work double crochet stitches across the row. On the final stitch of each row, work in a bit of your tail yarn to create a slightly thicker, more durable edge. Complete three rows of double crochet for the front panel, then repeat the same foundation chain and three rows for the back panel. Keep the body panels considerably larger and wider than the sleeve pieces you'll make in Step 4 — this generous width is what gives the sweater its oversized, baggy drape.

Step 3 — Work the ribbed sections

Switch to your 4mm hook for the ribbing on the cuffs, bottom edge, and neckline. Chain one stitch fewer than your foundation chain length, then work single crochet in the back loop only across the row — this back-loop technique creates the same stretchy, ridged texture as a knit rib, but stays entirely within crochet stitches. For the bottom edge, work two rows of back-loop single crochet to create a flatter, more structured ribbed band. Repeat this ribbing technique for the neckline and both cuffs once the sleeves are ready.

Step 4 — Crochet the sleeves

Start each sleeve at the wrist with a narrower ribbed band worked on the 4mm hook, then switch to the 5mm hook and increase stitches steadily as you work upward toward the shoulder to create the extra-baggy sleeve shape. Change yarn colours as desired to match the body panels. Make the sleeve wide enough at the top that, once sewn to the body, it leaves plenty of room for the arm and echoes the oversized fit of the rest of the sweater.

Step 5 — Assemble and finish

Sew the front and back body panels together at the shoulder seams, leaving a wide gap between the seams to form the neck opening — because the panels are large, this naturally results in a relaxed, wide neckline. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, adjusting placement as needed for the size of the opening. The extra fabric built into both the sleeves and body panels is what creates the sweater's signature baggy silhouette. Weave in all yarn tails securely with a tapestry needle, then block and wash the finished sweater according to your yarn's care instructions for a polished result.

Frequently asked questions

What skill level is needed to crochet a baggy square sweater?
This is an intermediate project. You should be comfortable with double crochet stitches and basic increasing and decreasing, and some familiarity with ribbing-style textures will help when you work the cuffs, bottom edge, and neckline.

How can I adjust the size of the baggy square sweater?
Adjust the length of your foundation chain to change the overall width of the body and sleeve panels. Adding or removing multiples of 10 chains (plus the extra 5 used in this pattern) will scale the finished sweater up or down while keeping the proportions consistent.

Can I customize the yarn colors in this pattern?
Yes. The pattern uses three main colors for the body panels plus a separate ribbing color, but you can substitute any medium-weight yarn colors you like. Just keep your gauge consistent across color changes so the panels line up evenly when assembled.

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